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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.